Hotel Talisi,
Tallassee, Alabama
By: Jerry Smith
Publisher: StClairCountyAl.com
Date: 12/22/08
Talisi was a Creek Indian village on the east bank of the Tallapoosa River. The name means "captured town", for whatever reason. From this beginning the city of Tallassee grew, along with such establishments as The Hotel Talisi. It's an intriguing post-Victorian place, built around 1928, and faithfully restored to its former frontier elegance after having been boarded up for many years. You can rent hotel rooms or suites for a real nostalgic (or romantic) visit into early 20th century Alabama. The food is legendary, and draws crowds from all over, even Georgia.
It's my favorite eating place in all of Alabama. They have three large dining rooms, seating a combined total of over four hundred hungry guests. There's one simple, affordable price that varies slightly depending on the day of the week, and it covers everything, including dessert and tax. If you can see it, you can eat all you want. Servers usually provide a whole pitcher of whatever you're drinking.
These nice folks are a gold standard of Southern politeness. One server has worked there for more than twenty-five years. The crowds are often large but you never have to wait on anything. The food? Well, what can I say? You'll just have to experience it for yourself.
This buffet is HUGE. Every offering is fixed in ways we fondly remember from granny's dinner table. According to the owner, Talisi hasn't missed a day of serving fried chicken in more than forty years. They also claim to serve more than 6,000 pounds of chicken and 1,300 pounds of sweet potatoes in an average month. If you want to introduce Yankee visitors to real food, this is the place to do it. The Grouchy Glutton devoutly wishes this place were in St Clair. And now that we've taken the wrinkles out of our bellies, let's take a walk through the hotel.
The Hotel Talisi is a living museum. Their spacious lobby is furnished with period antiques, including velvet couches, crystal chandeliers, the original check-in desk and cash register, and a fine player grand piano, the only one I've ever seen. You are welcome to visit the upstairs hall which is even more lavishly furnished. The former Mrs. and I once spent an interesting night in one of the old rooms. Yes, there are ghosts at the Talisi; but polite ones. They do most of their noise-making through the steam radiators.
To get there, take a scenic drive down US231 through Sylacauga to Rockford, which has the only traffic light in Coosa County. While in Rockford, go right at the light for about a half block to see the old county jail. It's made of rock, and has a small museum to browse if you can catch them open. Just beyond the jail is the gravesite of Fred The Town Dog, a must-see. Get back on US231 and drive on to Wetumpka. There's a lot to see there, too, but it will need to wait for a future Driving Dixie trip. Get off on AL14, and head eastward to Tallassee.
Just before you reach the river you hope to see a short, narrow road on your right called Sistrunk Street, at the end of which lies the Hotel Talisi. Most folks miss it the first time and wind up driving across Thurlow Dam to turn around. That's fine, as the dam is also a highly interesting sight we'll visit again after lunch. Parking is scant around the hotel, so take the first place you see.
Just a few feet past the hotel is a road that goes below the dam, passing a large extinct fabric mill and the site of a Civil War Armory on your left. Due to the outrage of 911, you can no longer get close to the bottom of Thurlow Dam, but better views can be had by crossing the dam itself on AL14. This structure was built on the Tallapoosa in 1930, and is one of Alabama Power's oldest hydroelectric facilities.
To return homeward, take AL229 out of Tallassee, then follow it until you come to AL63. Take 63 to the lakeside business community of Kowaliga, and visit the marina area. There's a fine outdoor timber A-frame chapel, and a store which used to house Kowaliga, the actual wooden Indian made famous in Hank Williams' song "Pore Ole Kooliger". The statue has since been moved, unfortunately, and the original store in the song burned a long time ago. Maybe the folks at the store can tell you where Kowaliga went.
Proceed northward on AL63 all the way to US280 near Alexander City, thence homeward to St. Clair on US280 and US231. Round trip from Pell City is about 200 miles.
*Photos by Jerry Smith
*Top photo - Hotel Talisi
*Middle photo - Hotel Talisi Dining Room
*Bottom photo - Thurlow Dam